Unleashing Vision: A New Era of Fashion Design at CSM
A New Venue for Unbound Creativity: The Central Saint Martins BA Show in Peckham
For the first time in 15 years, the Central Saint Martins B.A. graduate show left its familiar grounds in King's Cross, journeying south of the river to the dynamic neighborhood of Peckham. Despite the capricious summer weather, the streets around the venue buzzed with energy, adorned with vibrant "Buzzballs" and echoing with Afro Dance rhythms and dub hooks from passing cars. Attendees ascended a flight of unique Pepto Bismol-pink stairs, crossed a panoramic rooftop, and descended into an expansive parking garage. This unconventional setting provided the perfect backdrop for the students of CSM's bachelor's program to present their collections, historically known for reflecting global influences and envisioning future possibilities without limits. The atmosphere was lively, filled with friends, family, editors, and esteemed alumni gathered in the raw concrete space.
Defying Commercial Norms: The Independent Spirit of Emerging Designers
Among the 40 designers hailing from at least 27 different countries and various fashion-related programs at CSM, some will advance to the M.A. program, while others will pursue careers in ateliers, events, and communications. The B.A. show, however, offers a unique platform where designers are not yet beholden to commercial pressures, the demands of capsule wardrobes, or the dictates of algorithms and affiliate marketing. This particular cohort distinctly shuns the current trend of 'quiet luxury.' Within the industrial confines of the venue, colors were bold, textures and techniques stood out, and profoundly personal narratives were brought into sharp focus.
Personal Narratives and Poignant Creations: Polina Kadilnikova's Award-Winning Collection
Sarah Gresty, the course leader now in her tenth year of teaching the program, highlighted how the 2026 cohort engaged with their own identities to craft deeply personal portrayals of real-world issues. Polina Kadilnikova, a Ukrainian womenswear student, opened the show. She drew inspiration from her journey home and the experiences of those displaced from their routines, either taking up arms or caring for others. Her first model walked wearing a helmet, her arms encased in a tunic adorned with a watercolor painting of a lush forest. Another design, a metallic dress with intricate naturalistic cut-outs, served as both protection and a window into the past. This powerful and intimate presentation earned Kadilnikova the first prize, determined by a popular vote, adding a significant resonance to her victory.
Vibrant Urban Inspirations: Harley Angrabeit's Award-Winning Designs
Harley Angrabeit, recipient of the H&M Sustainability Fashion Award, brought the energetic essence of London's Ridley Road market to the runway, channeling the spirit of its stylish residents. Her collection captured the psychedelic and overwhelming sensation of a bustling Saturday with cobalt blues, crushed pinks, houndstooth patterns, and deliberately placed flammable labels. A striking red fishnet vest was ingeniously fashioned into a speaker, while a soft, voluminous dress gained structure from an oversized coat hanger. Receipts cascaded from the bustier of a handbag-dress, and a bodice was embellished with a dazzling array of market-found jewels, creating a look of high visual impact and even higher spirits.
Exaggerated Forms and Playful Proportions: Making a Bold Statement
The concept of "taking up space" was expressed with both literal and liberal interpretations. Daniel Haworth, a former Savile Row pattern-cutter, presented bulbous-buttoned paper doll dresses and fluted hems. Cassie Ambroz’s models energetically traversed the runway in swirling, candy-colored legwarmers and exaggerated puffball dresses. The show concluded with Buzz Shatford's vibrant spectacle of aggressively neon beauty queens, featuring latex pannier skirts and whimsical fuzzy bubble hems, creating a memorable and rebellious finale.
Subtlety with Substance: Craftsmanship and Emotional Depth
Even amidst the more understated collections, a distinct point of view was evident. Shane Elias's menswear exhibited a refined, almost heritage quality through warped tailoring and exquisite embroidery, hinting at some Slimane-esque influences and Elias's own musical background. These pieces could seamlessly find a home on the racks of Dover Street Market. Womenswear designer Julie Pereira Martins, a Matches Fashion Scholar, delivered a theatrical presentation: one model walked with an egg and spoon in her mouth, another laughed uncontrollably, and another screamed. Yet, her Pina Bausch-inspired dresses and rosebud skirts exuded a delicate, balletic grace.
Innovation in Textiles: Crafting Unique and Personal Expressions
Regardless of their specialization or background, every designer in the show experimented with their own prints and textiles. Gresty noted a persistent desire among the students to create something genuinely unique and personal. Chi Wei's beaded boleros, car coats, and hairbows offered a luxurious sensory experience. Print student Finlay Maguire's dandyish designs charmed with colorful, textured florals reminiscent of Dries Van Noten. Zahra Al-Najjar, an Iraqi designer and British Fashion Council scholar, showcased printed trousers made from vintage Arab magazines and a stunning dress featuring her interpretation of Farsi script. Knitwear specialist Matteo Dunkley pioneered a technique of embedding wax within knits, resulting in a captivating, moldable, and shimmering material. A structured, bow-cinched, layered peplum piece from his collection would be ideal for any avant-garde emerging starlet's press tour. Greta Guise Smith presented a hand-appliquéd latex cloak and fanning rubber capes, designed for a sensitive dominatrix, that moved with divine fluidity. Meanwhile, Julia O'Callaghan sent out a supple latex fringed dress, creating a look that seamlessly blended pagan goddess with flapper aesthetics.
Sustainable Futures and Bold Statements: Challenging Conventions
A truly breathtaking moment came from Yuki Naka, another winner of the H&M Sustainable Fashion Award, who engineered garments from soap. What appeared to be a cable-knit jacket featured a collar that lathered and bubbled as it moved down the runway, a playful and eco-conscious innovation. Menswear student and BFC scholar Luke Saul proposed a pair of "jeans" meticulously crafted from scraps of oil-painted calico, alongside a sequin dress made entirely from aluminum cans. His undulating handwoven tunic bore a powerful message: "EDUCATION, NOT MISSILES," directly challenging societal priorities.
A Lightness of Spirit: Embracing Possibility in South London
Following the catwalk, models mingled behind the back rows, their exaggerated millinery bobbing to a frenetic soundtrack. Students are encouraged to select music that resonates with their work, often disregarding conventional flow, leading to an eclectic mix from Drake to Queen, Eastern European folk tunes, and hyperpop. As the crowd spilled out into the muted summer evening light of South London, there was a palpable sense of lightness. For this year’s graduates, the future isn’t a chaotic trajectory, but rather an expansive realm of boundless potential.
